A trip to Mombasa!

So, less than a week after arriving back from Vic Falls and Chobe I woke up before the sun and went to the Intercape bus stop. For some reason, I neglected to do much in the way of planning before setting out on this adventure, which is fairly uncharacteristic. I tried to book a ticket over the internet the night before I was supposed to leave, but it would not work. Then I realized that all the Batswana students who are studying in South Africa would also be looking to head to Johannesburg around that time. I panicked a little, but Ronald came to take me to the bus stop and waited with me while they tried to figure out if there were any available seats. He made sure to stand near the conductor so that she didn't forget about me, and in the end she told me I could have her seat! I sat in a regular seat until we stopped to pick up the last person with a ticket, and after that I sat up front near the driver and the conductor stood in the stairwell. When I got to Jo'burg I asked about a taxi and she helped me find an Intercape employee who agreed to drive me to the airport. People have complained about the lack of customer service in Botswana, but they are just not looking in the right places, I guess.

I got to the airport at about 2 o'clock and found out that the Kenya Airways staff doesn't arrive until 8:30, so I would have to wait to check in. I spent a few hours at one little cafe and then browsed the three shops available, then spent a few more hours in the other little cafe because there were no seating areas that were not attached to cafes. Then I found a phone card and a phone booth and called mom and dad and Ronald to let them know I had made it to the airport. I finally checked in and browsed the more abundant shops inside the terminal and decided they need a wedding registry at the Jo'burg airport. They had so many amazing housewares! I managed to get some sleep on the plane and when I landed in Kenya I got my visa and made my way toward domestic departures. A man approached me and said you are going to Mombasa? I will show you where the terminal is, sit here until the line dies down and I will check to make sure you are in the system. Hmmmm. This guy clearly wanted money. I had a boarding pass, why would I suddenly drop out of the system. I told him I could find the terminal on my own after he tried to get a 1000 shilling tip. Nice try, buddy, look for some other mzungu to hustle!

I finally arrived in Mombasa and Ruth was waiting at the airport. We drove through Mombasa and took the ferry to South Beach where Ruth lives and where my hotel was. Mombasa city is on an island, so the ferry is the only way to get from South Beach into town. We arrived in the village of Ukanda. It was so vibrant and lively that I immediately felt welcome and at home. We then headed to my beach front hotel, the Kaskazi. This was the view from my balcony:

After a much-needed shower and nap we headed out to see the village and try some traditional Swahili food. I called it a night early; I was exhausted from the 30 hours of traveling it took to get there. The next day we headed in to Mombasa city on the ferry and took a tuk-tuk (pictured below) to Fort Jesus, a Portuguese fort built almost 500 years ago which is now a national monument and museum. The "Anti-Corruption Suggestion Box" was my favorite part... Though the views were also quite wonderful.










Then we went shopping in town and I got some great fabric, a leso (traditional cloth), and a dress. That night we went dancing at Sharkatak. Ruth is one of my all-time favorite people to dance with.

On Sunday we went to Shimba Hills game reserve with Ruth's friend Sylvia and her sons Joseph (6) and Nick (14 months). We saw buffalo, warthogs, elephants, and two male giraffes fighting by hitting each other with their necks. We also found a tailor to make me a dress out of my new fabric.
On Monday I got my hair braided. It took three ladies four-and-a-half hours to complete. Then we went in to Mombasa and ran around for hours trying to book me a hostel for my night in Jo'burg on the way back to Botswana. We watched the show at the hotel, which was "Lord of the Dance" that night. It was a little odd to watch Irish step dancing in Kenya, I have to admit.

Tuesday we went snorkeling at the coral reef in the marine park, it was so beautiful!
Then we had a seafood lunch at a hotel and walked through the mangroves. The black stuff is dead coral--the entire area used to be under water at one time.


Then we went and picked up my dress at the tailor and enjoyed "African Night" with traditional food and dancing at the hotel. On Wednesday we did one last round of shopping in Mombasa before heading to the airport. My flight from Nairobi to Jo'burg was delayed, so I didn't get in until about 1:30 am. The people from the hostel were there to pick me up, though and I got some sleep. The next day I took a taxi to the bus station and took the Intercape back to Gaborone. Ronald met me at the bus stop and took me home. I gave him the shirt I bought for him and we had a little fashion show.